Another Page Turned...

I'm sure David will post his newest adventure soon, so I'll let him explain when he's settled in.

Dave's been a good friend...my best friend...for years. Our lives have taken some interesting paths since we met in the '90s, and we can laugh for hours about them. Especially about the last several years here in New Orleans. We both moved here to run from some self-created demons, not realizing how wonderful the future we were running to. We both have grown, matured and prospered with new loves, friends, and families.

I can't wait to see what happens next! Good luck and Salud, David...

Training?

Walking

I spend a fair amount of my day walking a job site where I inspect and document repairs and improvements to a street in uptown New Orleans. Generally there are three crews concentrating on their particular tasks, and I quietly observe. I get to spend most of my day inside my own head, while putting one foot in front of the other. It's occurred to me that physically walking across Spain may be the easiest part. Can I keep focused on the goal? Will it be enough to get me on the trail to hoof out another 5 to 6 hours in the heat of the summer? Will I be able to control the dialogue inside my head? I'm so anxious to start and learn more about me...

Backpack Adjustments

I extended my hiking distance today to 1 1/2 hours during another incredible sunrise. I'm still not anywhere near ready for Spain, but I can feel the progress my body's making.

I did notice a difference in the ease of carrying my pack after adjusting it yesterday. I had not anticipated such a change in comfort by making what seemed like minor adjustments. I found some good tips on YouTube, Fit A Pack Right

The pack has yet to become effortless, but it is noticeably better.

Daylight Savings Time

November 2nd...I'm not sure why we observe (nor interested enough to look it up) Daylight Savings Time. But I do know we "fall back" in a couple of weeks. The evenings get dark too soon now, so will be getting much too short then. The reason I mention it is because it is now dark at 6:00am when I start my training hikes. I was almost 30 minutes into my walk this morning before I could easily see what was around me. I love the bike trail along the lake, partly because there are no light poles every few hundred feet. I guess in two weeks I'll be disappointed to miss the sunrises...

Sorry guys...

I know I haven't posted in a while. I just came off a monster week where I decided to bite off more than I could chew and accept 13 different writing assignments, all due - you guessed it - Tuesday at midnight. Somehow I made it. Never again.

These were not lightweight pieces, either. I had to write about everything from the subtle differences between West Coast Rules and East Coast Rules as they relate to Beer Pong (dead serious) to the mechanics of investing in real estate within the framework of a 401(k) account. Good times.

Anyway... I'm back.

New Backpack

I recently purchased a Jansport Carson external frame backpack off of eBay. At 4,900 cu.in., its probably more room than I need, but I like the external frame aspect. Spending about $50, including shipping, makes it a very reasonable solution.

Today was the first morning to try it out on the trail. Packed with old clothes, she weighed in at 17 pounds. I took a 3-mile, one-hour hike on the bike trail near Lake Pontchartrain. It was a beautiful sunrise and the pack felt great. I've just got to keep training so I can do 5 times that distance every day for a month!



Thank goodness the pack came with a hip belt that expands to 52". Now I need to concentrate on the belly!

Rolf Potts Book Signing

What an interesting evening! As always, Dave has his finger on the pulse of cool events happening in our area. As a result, he let me know that Rolf Potts would be doing a book signing for his newest, "Marco Polo Didn't Go There." As I mentioned in an earlier post, I enjoyed "Vagabonding" and wanted to meet him. Rolf was both entertaining and inspiring. Learn more about Rolf and catch an upcoming book signing at http://www.rolfpotts.com/. And be sure to order both of his books through the rotating banner at the top of this blog (you'll be helping Dave support this site.)

The Blessing of No News

The summer between my sophomore and junior years in college, I decide to forego another hot, hard-working summer driving a loud, dusty tractor in the small wheat community I grew up in. I used my Spring Break to interview and get hired for a summer job at a nice resort in the Ozarks. Not only would I be in the air conditioning of the main restaurant, I could grab two nice meals each night for my roommate and I while he, as the bartender, grabbed the libations for after work. The group of college kids working there became quite close due to the surprisingly limited variety of activities available to us at the resort. Cable TV and 24 hour news channels had not yet been invented. We worked hard at night, partied harder into the morning, then napped near the pool the next day before starting the cycle again. We were so absorbed in our microsphere that we didn't know John Wayne had died for almost a month.

I am reaching maximum exposure to this year's election news. Debates, gaffes, experience, change, change, change...everything is dissected and over-examined. My patience is being tested every time I turn on the television or radio. The noise is so loud, I can't hear the soft, quiet voice inside me. I need to get away long enough to hear it again. I need "no news". I need to talk to someone about my thoughts, not listen to pundits about theirs. I need to actively participate in the world, not passively watch it on tv. I need to go for a long walk.

It can be scary to look back...

So, if Dave wants to throw down some old photos, see if these two photos could possibly be of the same guy. Here's my college photo...full head of hair, dimples, even sideburns.

Here I am after a night of drinking and a long brunch at the all-you-can-eat buffet. Fortunately Kim and Laurie were there to keep the other folks from pushing us back in to the water.



Yes, it will be a really long walk!

Funny Before & After Photos

My wife was digging through old boxes today, trying to decide what stays in storage and what goes to Paris with us. Somewhere she came across a few photos of me from my Marine days. I thought it would be fun to do a little Nutra-Systems before & after comparison.


This is me, circa October 1990. Note, in addition to the cheesy 70's porn mustache, the noticeable lack of padding in the midsection. Note also the lovely accommodations we enjoyed while guests of the Saudi king.

Flash forward to my son's fifth birthday last month. Note the irony of the O'Douls resting on the beer gut - all the calories, none of the buzz.



Note also the fat guy lounging in the far left of the photo. Yup, that's Randy.

This is going to be a really long walk.

A Morning Walk

This is one of the times of the year that its most enjoyable to be outside in New Orleans. I just got back from a walk, watching the sunrise pop up over Lake Pontchartrain, with a cool breeze that made me say out loud, "Thank you for such a beautiful day!" No clouds, low humidity and temps in the 60s. Its the perfect "Chamber of Commerce" day.

How many mornings might be like today while walking across Spain? No matter how many, I'm sure we'll appreciate each one.

Getting in Shape?

Dang. Reading David's post was quite a wake-up call. Not because of how he's training for the walk, but by being reminded how good of shape he, and I, used to be in. We've known each other for a long time, so watching the increase in girth has been gradual and fairly inperceivable. The minimal daily changes sure can add up over time. To the point where I can confidently bet a beer that you can't pick me out of my high school yearbook. Double or nothing with my college photos.

Currently I'm 280 pounds, which is 80 pounds more than in college. Did you know that most folding lawn chairs are rated for only 225 pounds? Trampolines? No way. There are cars built today that David and I can't ride in at the same time. And if a shirt is a size large, than how big do you have to be to wear an "extra" large? I wear an XXL...

But I'm inspired by this challenge. I know the physical training will be harder than when I was younger. I trained for and climbed Mt. Whitney in a day in my 30's (tallest US mountain in the lower 48). I ran my first marathon at 40. But I sure haven't taken care of myself in the last ten years. Since moving to New Orleans seven years ago, I've gained and maintained forty new pounds. They've got to go. I've fallen in love with food with names I can't spell. I've forgotten what it's like to walk up a hill. My bike is covered with dust and sits on two flat tires. I drive to the market four blocks away to buy Blue Bell ice cream and Hubig Pies. But I know I can do it. It just might take a little more dedication than before. And maybe I can get David to carry some of my stuff...

Getting In Shape for the Trip

As you may have guessed by the name of the blog, Randy and I could stand to lose a few pounds. I'm tipping the scales around 230 these days, and at 5 feet 9 inches tall that simply won't do for a 500-mile walk.

My biggest obstacle to maintaining a reasonable weight is my age (39). A lot of you might think it has more to do with where I live and all the great food and booze here. That is certainly a factor but, since becoming a dad, I mostly eat at home and I haven't had a single drink in 3 months. Also, like most people, when I was younger I could eat and drink anything I wanted and I wouldn't gain weight. These days, not so much.

It's not like I lead a totally sedentary lifestyle, either. I chase 2 young boys around all day, and I walk 2 miles with my dogs at least 5 times a week. That probably doesn't sound like much exercise, but here in New Orleans it practically makes me a tri-athlete.

To be honest, I'm at a total loss for what to do to get in shape for this trip. Everything I've read says that it is more grueling than you think, and when you add a 30-pound backpack it's like carrying a small child on your back the whole way.

According to the accepted body mass charts, my ideal weight is 165 pounds. This is hard for me to believe because that is what I weighed my senior year in high school. When I came home from the Gulf War, I weighed 152 pounds and I looked like a refugee. I did not look or feel healthy at that weight. Frankly, if I could get down to 200 pounds before the trip I'd be tickled pink. If I managed to see 180, I'd dance a jig.

Looking back to the time in my life when I was in the best shape, it would have to be when I graduated Marine Corps boot camp. Fortunately, those results were also the easiest to measure, as every Marine must pass a physical fitness test (PFT) in order to graduate.

The PFT was broken into 3 parts, each worth 100 points. Obviously a perfect score was 300, and any Marine that achieved a perfect score was recognized by the President of the United States. In other words, it was a pretty big deal. I never got a perfect score, but I came pretty close.

The 3 requirements were:

• 20 pull-ups
• 80 sit-ups in 2 minutes or less
  
• 3-mile run in 18 minutes or less

I got the 20 and 80 no problem, but my best time on the run was 18:50, thus earning me a PFT score of 295. Now, when I think about being in the best possible shape for this journey, I think that I might have to adopt my old Marine Corps methods and just gut it out.

I'm pretty confident that I can crank out 80 sit-ups in 2 minutes with a little practice. The 20 pull-ups will be a little tougher these days because my shoulders are pretty much shot, but I think I can achieve this one as well, given enough time. The run is going to be the bear.

It really is a pay-me-now-or-pay-me-later kind of deal. If I don't put in the time before the trip, I probably won't last on the trail. If I can get back to that 295 PFT though, I'll be able to do it with no problem.

Wish me luck. I'll keep you posted.

The Well Heeled Pilgrim

Silly me.

For better than 35 years now, I've been laboring under the mistaken notion that walking is free. I found out today how wrong I was.

Admittedly, I hadn't given much thought to the actual outfitting for this pilgrimage. Sure, I've had a list of gear in the back of my mind, at least vaguely. But beyond a backpack and some good boots, I really haven't given it a lot of thought.

In light of the fact that I'm moving to Paris in 47 days though, I've been forced to think about it more clearly for economic reasons. The fact is, buying my gear here in the U.S. will be much cheaper than buying it in Europe.

With that in mind, I headed over to Massey's Professional Outfitters today. Massey's is a local Louisiana outfit that has everything you'd ever need to conquer the great outdoors. When my travel has been extreme (-40 degrees in the Siberian Arctic in February, for example), it is where I've geared up. However, because their gear is top-of-the-line, it is easy to go broke in Massey's.

When I told the sales guy I was going to walk the Camino he gave me a knowing look and walked me over to the backpacks. There he displayed a dazzling array of the latest high-tech carrying equipment that could be relied upon to summit Everest.

No, dude. I'm going for a walk. A long walk, I'll grant you. But I'll never be more than ten clicks from the next town. He finally relented and showed me what he thought was the minimum acceptable pack for the job. It was beautiful. Internally framed with high-tensile strength lightweight aluminum rods, 60 liter capacity, integrated water system, a mesh/foam shield to wick the sweat from your back and keep you cool, this bag had everything. A far cry from the old-school ALICE pack I carried for years in the Marines. And bargain priced at $260.

To put this into perspective, I have basically spent the last 20 years of my life traveling. In that time, I've had my boots on the ground of four continents and dozens of countries. I've probably been thrown out of more countries than the average guy visits in his life. And I still haven't spent $260 on luggage. Total.

I tell him about a $60 pack I saw on Amazon and he almost falls over. He explains to me that $60 packs cause kidney stones, get you strip-searched by the cops, and often spontaneously combust on the trail, incinerating their wearer. I'm understandably skeptical. Sensing my resistance, he moves me to the next piece of essential equipment.

When it comes to underwear, I like to think I'm as exotic as the next guy. My underwear drawer boasts boxers and boxer/briefs. Some of them even have Homer Simpson on them! No tighty whities for this kid.

Imagine my surprise when I was presented with underwear the Space Program probably doesn't even have yet. I don't even really know how to describe these things, other than to say that they most closely resembled what you might see a fat German guy wearing at the beach. Minus the black socks and sandals.

The sales guy explained that at only $30 a pair (you can't make this stuff up), you were getting the ultimate in men's intimate apparel. Some kind of dry-weave technology kept the sweat off of you. You really only had to own two pair, one to wear and one to wash for the next day. There was even some kind of anti-odor technology. I really didn't want to pursue this line of explanation any further. The sales guy was on a roll, though. Plunging headlong into the territory of too much information, he volunteered that he was wearing a pair right now. Ughhh.

Boots, walking sticks, hydration equipment, the list went on and on. How early pilgrims made this journey with no money, begging the whole way, now sounded a lot more authentic to me. I could've easily dropped a grand in there today. It has inspired me to go swiftly in the opposite direction.

This walk is meant to be, among other things, a penance. Using $1,000 or more on gear to make the walk comfortable defeats the purpose. I have decided that my total gear budget will be $200. If the trek is more painful because of this decision, I'll be the better man for it. Besides, Catholic Relief Services could really use the extra $800 right now. I'll just take my chances with the exploding backpack.

Americano

Randy's last post reminded me of a great movie about the Camino Santiago. It is also the only movie I know of about the Camino Santiago.

The movie is Americano. It stars Joshua Jackson of Dawson's Creek fame (yawn), and tells the story of two young Americans in Spain for the running of the bulls. It is their last hurrah before entering the "real" world after college.

Jackson plays Chris McKinley, a recent college grad about to get on the career fast track. His buddy Ryan (played by Timm Sharp) is the stereotypical American - loud, obnoxious, whiney, and wholeheartedly convinced that a life of cubicle indenture is the promised land. Chris is more introspective and, when he meets a Spanish beauty who questions his life choices, he starts having second thoughts about the 40-40-40 plan (work 40 hours a week for 40 years so you can retire on 40% of what you already can't afford to live on). She introduces him to the Camino Santiago and gives him the perspective that there is more to life than money.

Along the way, the boys meet Riccardo (played superbly by Dennis Hopper), the archetypical expatriate bar owner (take it from me, I was one). He brings the kind of countercultural humor and experience that one would expect from an exiled barkeep. He swills absinthe with abandon and stages a politically incorrect reenactment of the running of the bulls inside his bar, using pit bulls and midgets. He's absolutely classic.

Watching Chris go through the decision process is what makes this film so compelling. Will he head back to Wall Street and make a buck? Or will he strap on a backpack and hit the Camino in search of an authentic life? The movie is well worth the price of admission to find out and the scenes of the Camino are beautiful.

If anyone knows of any other movies about the Camino, please let me know!

Carrot or Stick?

Our society seems to teach us to study hard, get good grades, a good job and retire at 65 years of age...then start having fun. Get rich and retire. But what is rich? Ask a dozen friends and you’ll get a dozen different answers based on their current financial situation. Why not figure out what you want your retirement to look like, determine how much money you’ll need for that lifestyle, and live it now! Some people need a carrot, some the stick. So if you don’t know what you want, at least be specific about what you don’t want, and do whatever’s left over.

Planning for this Pilgrimage is helping me to reassess a lot of decisions I’ve made in my life. Why wait until I’m 65 to start these adventures? Why wait past today? I'm going to do three things today to get me closer to this pilgrimage.

Pilgrimage to Lourdes

Looks like I'll be able to make my pilgrimage to Lourdes before the jubilee ends! The celebration of the 150th anniversary of the apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary at Lourdes ends December 8th. That gives us about a month after moving to Paris to make it down to Lourdes.

It means a lot to me because it was something my dad always wanted to do and, near the end, he had the faith that a trip to Lourdes would cure him. Unfortunately, he was called home before he got the chance to see Lourdes. So I'll make the pilgrimage for him.

Crawfish Boil

If you’re ever near New Orleans in the spring, you’ve got to check out a crawfish boil. It’s all about the event. The food is secondary to the beer. And the beer takes a backseat (or more likely a driver’s seat) to the colorful arguments about how to boil the crawfish in the first place.

After grabbing a cocktail for the cook, take a look at the tub of live crawfish waiting to be boiled. Most are lying patiently waiting for someone else to make the decisions about what to do next. Others are squirming around vying for a little more crawfish real estate. Very few are trying to make a run for it. And when they do, some other crawfish will inevitably grab him and pull him back in. I’ve helped boil several thousand pounds of crawfish in the last seven years, and have yet to see more than a dozen make it out without someone blowing the whistle on them. Of course maybe a couple got by me wearing a disguise.

I’m fortunate to be surrounded by family and friends that encourage me to make decisions in my life, and then act upon them. Sure, they love having me around, but they understand my need to try new stuff and see new things. Maybe if crawfish would occasionally email pictures home, they’d get a little more support.

Vagabonding

Dave loaned me “Off The Road” by Jack Hitt and gave me “Vagabonding” by Rolf Potts for my birthday. I highly recommend both, for different reasons. “Vagabonding” will help you understand your desire to travel and help you get started. “Off the Road” will explain the Camino in an interesting and entertaining way. Both are very readable…use them as a resource to act, not an excuse to delay.

Why not combine both subjects and start my journey in New Orleans? Isn’t a pilgrimage also vagabonding? Can I leave a New World coastal city to travel to an ancient city on the Old World coast? Can I make the entire trip a pilgrimage? Can I make it inspirational to me?

Maybe I can find a commercial ship leaving New Orleans heading across the Atlantic. Then find a ride to Paris, before taking a train to St Jean Pied de Port and walking to Santiago de Compostela. Challenging…do I have what it takes?

Really...?

Who am I kidding with that last post? Three reasons:

1. I only need half an excuse to visit Dave, Laurie and the kids in Paris.
2. To paraphrase Dean Wormer in Animal House, “Fat, bald and 50 is no way to go through life.”
3. I’d rather walk 15 miles a day for a month with the possibility of spiritual enlightenment, then to go to work every day with the guarantee of a paycheck.

Initial Motivation

Dave sent me several links to start my education of the Camino. Google is a wonderful tool, too. I quickly learned enough to pique my interest. Check out the Internet for pictures, histories, and comments. It’s an eye-opener.

First, millions of people have made the walk over the last several centuries. There must be more to this then just a 475-mile walk. I have some questions in my life that might be answered on such a journey. I’m not sure of my expectations, but I do have an open heart and mind.

Second, I enjoyed my previous trip to Europe and this will be a unique way to see and learn more about France and Spain. I feel a connection to the Crusades and the Knights Templar, and I’d like to learn more about their involvement in this area.

I certainly want to test my ability to train and get in shape like I did when I was younger. A hike of 475 miles in 30-45 days means I need to prepare for 30,000 steps per day…every day!

Another motivator is setting and achieving a major goal. There is something incredibly satisfying and liberating having an objective so big that daily decisions are already made for me. It’s easy to feel in control of your life while stretching and reaching for a goal. And the bigger the better.

Finally, I’m getting tired of the view circling the same daily rut I’ve been creating for too long. As they say, “If you’re not the lead dog, the view never changes.” Plus, we’ll be going through Pamplona when the bulls run… That’ll count for at least two adventures!

Camino de Santiago

Here is a great three-minute video introduction to the Pilgrimage.

Let's get started...

At my 50^th birthday party a couple of weeks ago, Dave asked me what I had learned in my half century. I took a quick sip of my beer and replied, “Do the things you want to try sooner and more often. If you hate it, then you know. If you love it, you can keep doing it.” Make a list and get started crossing them off!

There are too many of us doing too many things that are not the result of conscious decisions, but instead as a result of a series of minor decisions made along the way. I don’t “hate” my job, but it’s not what I dreamed of doing when I was a kid. It’s not even what I studied for in college.

I’d rather be on an adventure. But I was raised to get good grades, get a good job, work hard, and enjoy my retirement. That’s hard to ignore in our culture. And adventures don’t come cheap. Or can they…?

When Dave mentioned a Pilgrimage, I was initially interested because it sounded like a good adventure. Admittedly, I first pictured the Mayflower, Thanksgiving, and shoes with buckles. But Dave has a good sense of what makes a “Kodak Moment” in life, so I wanted more info.

Dave started this blog to share his aspirations and inspirations. My humble contribution will be my random thoughts regarding my journey from New Orleans to Santiago. I’ll begin in the next post with my decision-making process to start my 7,000 mile pilgrimage.

Welcome to The Portly Pilgrim!

This blog was set up to record the preparations (both mental and physical) of two middle-aged guys for the Camino Santiago Compostela Pilgrimage.

For more than 1,000 years, Christian knights and pilgrims have walked this path across the Northern coast of Spain. The route we will take, the Camino Frances, begins in St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France and crosses the Pyrenees into Spain, traversing 480 miles on foot to the Compostela.

We plan to make the pilgrimage in the summer of 2009. Between now and then, we will use this blog as a forum to keep us focused and to help us prepare. Hopefully, it will be enjoyable to read as well. If you have made this pilgrimage, or know anyone who has, we would love to hear from you!

As for the name of the blog, it is no secret that we could both stand to lose a few pounds. Perhaps a 500-mile walk is just what the doctor ordered!

Audentes Fortuna Iuvat!